Costume Construction

Costume construction refers to the building and maintenance of garments for stage productions. The costume construction crew has varied and specialized tasks, from cutters and drapers to stitchers, all working together to create the look for a specific show. But how does a professional costume shop work? This guide will describe the roles, responsibilities, and processes of costume construction, from the first pattern to the final wardrobe storage.

Terminology

• Alteration: Changes made to a costume, based on size, style, or function.
• Cobbler: A shoe maker.
• Costume Construction: The process of building a costume, beginning with the renderings all the way to the final fittings.
• Cutter: The crew person who creates patterns and cuts the fabric; often the same person as the draper.
• Draper: The crew person who uses mannequins (or even actors) to create patterns through draping on a human form.
• Dresser: The crew person who facilitates costume changes and adjustments backstage during a performance, also called costume running crew.
• Fitting: The actor tries on the costume for size, movement, and function so that the shop supervisor, fitter, and/or designer can make alterations as necessary.
• Industrial Sewing Machine: A powerful sewing machine designed to sew heavy fabrics.
• Milliner: A hatmaker.
• Muslin: A thin, lightweight fabric that is used to create patterns and costume mock-ups.
• Notions: Items related to sewing, including needles, thread, zippers, buttons, etc.
• Serger/Overlock Machine: A type of sewing machine that uses multiple threads to create clean, finished edges on fabrics.
• Shop Supervisor: The person in charge of the costume shop crew, machinery, supplies, and budget. They often collaborate very closely with the costume designer to ensure successful costume construction.
• Stitcher: The person who sews together the costumes.
• Wardrobe Maintenance: The crew person responsible for cleaning, pressing, repairing, and storing costumes.

An example of an overlock stitch, created by a serger.