
Max Beerbohm’s caricature of Oscar Wilde [Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons]
Dandyism and Victorian Masculinity
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Introduction
It may be argued that no other literary figure in British history has startled and unsettled his contemporaries more than Oscar Wilde. His unconventional personal persona bled into the social and moral concerns taboos in his writing, particularly around the expectations of Victorian masculinity and appearance. As a leading figure in the Aesthetic Movement, Wilde’s attention to and appreciation of beauty and finery drove both his personal style and the inspiration behind several of his male literary characters. But this movement went against the appearance and values of the traditional Victorian gentleman. This guide will explore how Wilde cultivated the image of the Victorian dandy in both his work and his private life, and how this was received by contemporary society.
Terminology
- Aestheticism: An art movement in the late-nineteenth century which promoted the aesthetic value of literature, music, and the arts over their socio-political functions.
- Dandy: A man who is very particular about his appearance, dressing in a stylish and often flamboyant manner.
- Fin-de-siècle: The end of a century, used especially to define the last years of the nineteenth century.
- Ton: Fashionable, high class society during the British Regency era. The word comes from le bon ton, a French phrase meaning “good or elegant form or style”.
- Victorian: Relating to the reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901) or a person who lived in the Victorian era.
Key Dates & Events
- 1778-1840 - Life of George Byran “Beau” Brummell
- 1892 - The premiere of Lady Windermere’s Fan.
- 1895 - The premiere of An Ideal Husband in January.
- 1895 - The Importance of Being Earnest premieres in February.
Context & Analysis
The image of the late-Victorian dandy emerged from the larger Aesthetic Movement that was sweeping Britain and Europe during the end of the nineteenth century. However, the first public figure associated with the label of “dandy” was George Bryan “Beau” Brummell, an influential gentleman in early nineteenth-century London. His style, mannerisms, and appearance became a
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Alexandra Appleton
Writer, editor and theatre researcher